The Izakaya Experience

The Izakaya is a ubiquitous fixture across Japan. Whether you’re in a Tokyo suburb or a small village in the mountains you’ll be able to enjoy the hospitality and ambiance of these casual, inexpensive establishments where people gather in the evenings to eat and drink.

First things first. How do you find one? Check on Google Maps for eateries nearby and check out the photos. If they have a beerhall type feel, with long tables and people dressed in suits with loosened neckties, you’ve probably found one. You may also spot them based on the way they look from the outside. They have paper lanterns and noren hanging over the door. They’re not quiet, formal restaurants, so, you might be lured in by the volume of the patrons inside.

Izakayas, especially in bigger cities, can sprawl over 2 or 3 floors of a building. On entering wait to be seated. You will most likely be received by a residing and bold greeting said in unison by the employees around, “Irasshaimase!”, it literally means, “Please come!”, but it’s more of a, “Come on in!”. These warm welcomes are one of my favourite things about Japan. The host will find out on which floor there is an opening. Many izakayas have a 2-hour seating rule to allow for waiting groups to get a spot too. If you’re waiting, a table will open up soon enough.

The drinks of choice are draught beers and sake. In fact, the word ‘izakaya’, comes from the term, ‘sit down sake’. Don’t take your first sip until all the drinks arrive at the table, and the customary ‘kanpai’ has been cheered. It’s common for the table to all have the same drink for the first round, and move on to whatever from there. Never fill your own glass, instead, top-up everyone else’s, and wait for the favour to be returned.

A morsel of food will arrive right about now, one portion per person. This is called an otōshi. It goes hand-in-hand with the customary seating charge, known as otōshidai. This is a way of ensuring every seat in the house is paid for, even at the tables where there’s more drinking than eating being done.

What’s on the menu? The food on offer differs from one izakaya to the next. From sashimi to yakitori, from deep-fried things with dipping sauces to gyoza. Food comes out in a constant stream, and portions are intended for sharing. Most menus won’t come in English, use the Google Translate app to find out what’s on offer, ask your waitron for their recommendations, or be a little more adventurous. Simply point to one item in every section and wait to see what arrives. The most unexpected thing we received – raw sweet potato fries, with an egg yolk for dipping. The most delicious things brought to our table, a mountain of tiny shrimp, slabs of tuna sashimi and kimchi rice.

Your perception of the quiet, reserved Japanese you’ve seen on the street will be shattered during a visit to an izakaya. It’s where salarymen and women blow off steam after a long week of work, and where big groups of friends gather. Tables laugh, sing and chatter. These places aren’t where you grab a quick bite to eat, it’s where people ‘kuier’. Where to from here? A karaoke bar, a gig, or bed - your choice.

When you’re ready to get the bill, simply catch your server’s eye and sign for it. Japan is very much a cash society, and most people pay in cash. Remember to not leave before receiving your change. Tips aren’t accepted and can cause a lot of confusion. When leaving, say, “ochiso-sama deshita” - which means, “It was a feast.”